There’s a lot to consider when looking for your first kart. The last thing you’d want is to end up with something that’ll never perform — or start. Hopefully this guide will help you on your way.
Pick A Class
Before you worry yourself with the different makes and models of karts, it’s vital to figure out the class in which you’ll be running.
Each kart club will host a variety of classes, usually comprised of two engine types; two-stroke and four-stroke. Two-stroke karts will typically cost more to race as they require frequent engine rebuilds, burn through tires faster, and often wear the chassis quicker (more on this later). Four-stroke karts are typically cheaper to run, but the caveat is that in their stock condition — which is the only way they’re raced — they don’t reach the same top speeds or acceleration as a two-stroke might. This isn’t necessarily a negative, as this makes parts last a lot longer, but it is something to think about.
If you need a nudge, I’d always recommend starting in four-stroke. Not only are they less of an expense in the off-chance that you realize racing isn’t going to stick, but the lack of HP makes smooth, technical driving critical.
Within the different engine types, there’s also an array of engine makes. For example, in the four-stroke realm, you’ll find most clubs are running some variance of Briggs and Stratton (such as the Lo206 or Predator 212) or some type of Honda 6.5hp engine. There’s even more to pick from when it comes to two-strokes. Whether it be a single-speed, shifter (a sequential 6-speed), or a DD2 (2-speed with paddles), you’ll find an array of makes within each group.
If you’re feeling overwhelmed with the choices, you’ll be happy to find out that none of it should really concern you. You don’t need to pick the class, but rather pick the kart suited for your club. The reality is, clubs can’t host every type of kart known to man. They usually pick a few classes and allow only those types of karts to run. For instance, within a 100km (62 mile) radius from us, there’s a club that has only one four-stroke class which only allows the Briggs Lo206, and another club that runs exclusively four-strokes, with only Honda engines being allowed. A little further away, there might be a club that runs exclusively shifter karts. The best thing you can do is visit the track in which you’ll be racing, and talk to someone familiar with their club. Find out which classes are run at that track, and narrow your search to the engine that corresponds with your budget and preference.
Pick A Supported Chassis
Just as you’ll find with phones, gaming consoles, operating systems, or really, anything in life, you’ll often hear talk about the “best” kart brand. However, just like with all the rest of these debates, it’s just a matter of opinion. Some karts will feel better to you than others. Joe might find that a Praga fits his needs, while Bob swears that Intrepid is better.
My opinion on the matter — pick something that’s local to you. Reach out to tracks around you and see what people are running. Better yet, if your track services karts, ask which brand they support. Most tracks will act as a distributor for some kart brands, and that’ll be vital when you need something replaced.
You’ll also find chassis support important when it comes to tuning. While I don’t recommend beginners get too worried about tuning at the start, most karts might actually be uncomfortable without a bit of setup. If you’re running an unfamiliar chassis, members of your karting community might find it hard to help you out!
New Or Used
New karts give you the peace of mind that the everything is in tip-top shape. You’ll never have to worry about any previous wrecks, bends, or cracks. Everything is brand new and the condition in which it’ll remain is up to you. All you’ve got to do is find a local dealer or order your kart online. However, anything that makes your life easier in racing will have a price on it — and this one can be quite hefty. New karts start at over double the average used kart. This might be a price you’re willing to pay, however I’ve seen one scenario play out a handful of times…
You never know if the sport’s for you until you’ve tried it out. After some sessions, you might decide that karting isn’t your thing. Or maybe you might find that karting is fine, but that kart isn’t right for you. No matter the reason, you’ll be sitting with a kart that’s useless to you, and now you’ve got to face the reality of selling in the kart market — the second you sit in that seat, you’ve chalked your kart’s value down to used.
That’s exactly why we suggest newcomers (or even seasoned racers) buy used. You can find almost brand-new karts for incredible prices on local classifieds sites (or even at your local club) if you’re lucky. Additionally, you’re less likely to worry about putting a couple dings on a used kart, which will allow you to push yourself and improve quicker.
Chassis Wear
Assuming you’re buying used, one of your biggest priorities will be with the condition of the kart’s chassis. The kart frame is made up of hollow 28-32 inch tubes. These tubes are set up in a way that allows the kart to flex under load. This flex is vital to get proper turn-in, due to the lack of differential in this type of single-axle vehicle. When the chassis flexes, the inside tire (the left rear when turning left / the right rear when turning right) lifts off the ground, allowing the kart to rotate properly. This is called “jacking”. Without proper flexion, the kart would just scrub around the corners and you’d experience quite a bit of understeer.
If you think about tire jacking like a rubber band snapping back, you’ll find that as you use it more and more, the return from the chassis will become a bit slower and “laggy”. This hinders it’s load transfer and makes for ineffective, unreliable jacking. That’s why you might hear some people warn you of “old karts”. In reality, age doesn’t necessarily equal a slow kart. A perfectly untouched kart that was manufactured ten years ago might be a much more viable option than a two-year old heavily used chassis.
This is most prominent in two-stroke, however, as the torque results in much heavier wear. This is also more important with these classes as miniscule-seeming changes can have massive effects on lap times with two-stroke karts. However, four-stroke karts still need to pay some mind to the chassis, as scraping pays a major role in the life of any kart.
Most tracks will have one or more curbs that you’ll have to “hop” over to follow the ideal racing line. Due to the lack of clearance under the karts (given that they’re inches off the ground), you’re inevitably going to end up scraping your chassis. This is going to be the most obvious tell of how much life is left in the tubes. Again, scraping is normal, so you’re not really going to find a kart without any, but if the scraping is really severe, you’ll notice that some parts of the tubes are starting to get flat. These are the karts you’ll want to avoid.
Race-Ready Karts
When buying a kart used, you’ll often find two variations of listings: a “rolling chassis” or a “race-ready kart”. The distinction between these lies in the engine. In simple terms, a rolling chassis comes without an engine, and a race-ready kart includes the engine. You should always make sure to ask any potential seller about this as most pictures on classifieds will show the kart with an engine, regardless of if it’s included.
You can absolutely buy a rolling chassis, if you’d like, but I can’t say I’d recommend it. Racing can be overwhelming when you first start — in fact, I still have weekends where racing is more stress than fun! When you bring your kart to the track for the first time, the only thing on your agenda should be getting quality seat time. Trust me, you don’t want to worry about breaking in an engine, too.
You might also stumble across a few karts that include a stand and some extra parts. You’ll need them either way, so I’d recommend checking those out if they’re available.
Conclusion
Regardless of the route you take — whether it be two-stroke or four-stroke, used or new, rolling or race-ready — the most important thing to consider is your budget. We’re not getting paid to turn laps. Any money you throw into racing can be kissed goodbye. You might be tempted to go all out for your first season, but money wont make you faster! Make sure to research what’s local, reasonable, and affordable for you.